So plated steel is definitely out, but is stainless always in? To determine the best type of bolt to use at a particular crag, it’s important to know what the environmental conditions are like at that area. Hopefully your children’s children won’t have to replace a bolt you place today.
However, if the bolt needs to be replaced two, three, or even four times before a stainless counterpart, is it really cheaper in the long run? Also, who’s going to do the replacing? The first ascensionist is motivated to put up the new route, but they may be less motivated to update the hardware on that route.
Using plated steel is cheaper-initially-which can make them seem appealing.
But this is not completely accurate-especially after the bolt has been exposed to the elements for years. Interestingly, plated bolts have a higher torque rating than stainless bolts, which people sometimes interpret to mean that plated bolts are stronger and safer. The new standard, in most cases, is stainless steel. A modern bolt should have a life expectancy of 50 years and, currently, plated steel bolts just don’t. Bolters and re-bolters alike should only be putting in the very best metal available into the rock. The days of using plated steel bolts and hardware-store specials should be a thing of the past. Drilling and installing a new mechanical boltĭrilling and installing a new glue-in boltĬonsiderations for developing new routes Bolt quality standards